The decline in the number and quality of woodlands and hedgerows means that gardens are ever more important spaces for nesting birds.

Nest boxes can be erected all year round. If they are erected in autumn or winter there will be time for them to take on a more natural appearance and smell before spring. It will also give birds plenty of time to explore before settling in. Many books suggest nailing the box to a tree. Its certainly a well trodden route but not always a good idea since you need to remove it to clean it and it could become loose as the tree grows. Instead, try to find a reliable but less permanent method such as wrapping a belt around the back plate and tree. Birds are fond of hanging boxes on chain or rope, despite the swaying, perhaps because they are safer.

Open boxes need to be sheltered in trees, climbers, or a building with an open entrance such as an old shed. Site them a minimum of 2m (6.5ft) and ideally 3 to 4m (10 to 13ft) high. Ivy is popular with robins, and spotted flycatchers are often attracted to wisteria.

Site a holed box on a tree and out of dense vegetation which would get in the way and give cats a leg up. Site at least 2m from the ground.

Planting prickly bushes under nest boxes or tying prickly branches to trees will help to deter cats. The box should face away from full sun and the prevailing wind. This generally means facing it north-east to south-east unless the area is sheltered.

Ideally, there should be an unhindered flight path to the box and a perch 1-2m (3-7ft) away on the approach where the bird can perch to assess security before entering the nest. If the box is not used the first year you could relocate it. However, a box that has not been used for nesting may be used for roosting instead.

Multiple nesting boxes may be installed. Sociable species such as sparrows love to nest close together in sparrow terraces. However, highly territorial birds such as robins, pied wagtails and spotted flycatshers are unlikely to nest near one another. Siting the box near a bird table or feeder is not a good idea as there will be too much disturbance. A little moss, hair, dry grass of other relevant nesting material could be added to spark interest, depending on the species.

Nest boxes for woodpeckers and starlings should be fixed on a tree at a height above the ground of 2.5m (8ft) in quiet locations and 4m (13ft) in noisy, urban locations. Choose a branch that provides the privacy and sun-screening of dense external foliage whilst offering easy access from inside the tree. Woodpeckers naturally excavate their nest in rotten tree trunks and branches. If the nest box is to be erected solely for woodpeckers it can therefore be made more attractive by packing it with a rotten log. The log should be rotten enough to cut with a knife and should be replaced once used or every 1-2 years. Drainage holes should be drilled in the base if rotten wood is used.

Maintenance is minimal. Remove and bury any contents including the nest, unhatched eggs and any unfortunate birds which didn’t make it. Use boiling water (with no chemicals) to kill any flea pupae, mites and lice that would infect young birds the following year. Wearing gloves is a sensible precaution. Unblock any blocked drainage holes. You could add a small amount of fresh nesting materials for winter roosting and to start things off next breeding season. Cleaning is best done a while after the young birds leave as they may return for a while after fledging. October to December is a good time to clean bird boxes as the young birds should have left for good and winter roosting and next seasons inspections have not yet begun. Obviously, cleaning will be easier if the box is removeable.

For safety reasons tell someone where you are going, or better still, work in a pair. Climbing trees is a fun yet risky business! Work on a dry day when any algae, moss and lichens on trees has dried out as they can prove very slippery, as can smooth bark. If you are using a ladder secure it to the tree, make sure your're working on level ground and at a sensible angle, and get someone to hold the bottom. Avoid over-reaching. Cut off dead branches as you go to avoid accidentally using them as a foothold. You could use these branches to create a wood pile which will make a home for beetles, frogs and myriad mini beasts as well as fascinating fungi.

Please do not be tempted to peer into nests until the birds have left. Not only is it an offence under the Wildlife Order 1985 to disturb nesting birds but many birds will desert a nest if it or its surroundings have been handled. Frightened young birds might jump the nest before they are able to fly. It has been known for a nesting owl to scratch a photographer’s eye out. Many videos are available showing what goes on in the nest and are filmed using inobtrusive cameras.

If a bird falls from its nest, only move it if it is immediate danger. Otherwise, leave the bird as the parent will often continue to look after it. Some can begin to feed themselves and sometimes a surrogate mother or father is adopted and will dutifully collect food and feed a bird of a different species if it pesters them!